Part of Mark Verber's
Photography Pages
October 2009
Before getting into the details about what camera might be best, I would like to note that a better camera won't necessarily get you more compelling images. Many of the most compelling images in the history of photography have been taken with what would now be considered primitive or even junky cameras. While I don't completely agree with everything in Ken Rockwell's Your Camera Doesn't Matter, I would agree that people often have overly optimistic expectations that a "better" camera will give them better images. High impact images comes from the photographer's vision/eye, willingness to be patience, knowledge, technique, and luck. The first step in getting better images is committing to learn and practice. That said, an appropriate camera does make is significantly easier to capture those high impact images and can enhance the quality of the images as well. It you have even a semi-decent camera already, the best investment you could make would be to purchase a tripod or taking an appropriate class. Most of the cameras I suggest are digital rather than film. I have written up some thoughts about why why digital cameras rule.
The most significant factor to settle is the ease of carry. Small cameras will almost always under perform compared to larger and heavier camera. Yet, any camera is better than no camera. If a camera is too big or heavy for you to bother with, then it's unlikely to get used and you are guaranteed to miss capturing images you want. I recommend people who purchase a single camera to settle something that they would be willing to carry into all the situations they would like images from. I can't tell you how many people I have seen purchase a largish camera "for better quality images" who them never take pictures because the camera is too much of a hassle. Serious photographers typically have multiple cameras because some events are all about best quality image capture while other events are more focused on the experience, but there might be some images that will be captured along the way. Since around 1995 I have almost have three sizes of camera. A full size SLR, a compact camera that could fit in a large coat pocket, and a camera which could fit into my pants pocket.
Sub-compact cameras easily fit into a small clutch purse or into a pocket without making a bulge. Pretty much every manufacturers makes at least one sub-compact camera. Don't expect anything better than basic snapshots from these cameras unless you are taking picture outside on a bright sunny day. If you take pictures indoors, expect that you will have to use a flash which will often wash out your subject. The Canon PowerShot SD (Digital IXUS) line tends to offer the best image quality in the ultra-compact and the Casio Exlim tends to lead the field in terms of features and diminutive size. No camera in this class provide reasonable creative control over exposure, it's point and pray. The Sony W300 looks interesting. The last time I looked, I most liked the Canon SD880-IS. Slightly larger than most sub compact, but smaller than most compact cameras is the Canon S90. This camera is superior to any of the other sub compact cameras currently on the market. The S90 uses the same sensor as Canon's flagship compact camera, the G11 and includes a number of photographer friendly features. More on the S90 later in this document.
Cameras that doesn't required something "extra" to be carried. This is a camera that fits into a purse, a book-bag, a briefcase, etc. For many men, this means a camera which is small enough to be stuffed into a coat pocket. This is the most popular size camera. I will note however, that some people over estimate how big a camera they are willing to carry in real life. I have watch several people (mostly men) purchase compact cameras never to use them more than once or twice because they were "too much trouble" to carry around. Many eventually switched to sub compact cameras. Every serious photographer I know has at least one compact size camera because there are days that you just don't want to carry a larger camera. Much like sub-compact cameras, you shouldn't expect good image quality in anything but daylight.
There is way to much attention focus on the number of mega-pixels (MP) cameras have... more isn't necessarily any better. 3MP is enough for basic snapshots or sharing things on the web, 8MP is good enough for a good size print. Beyond 8MP there is no advantage to more pixels unless you are doing 10x14" or bigger prints. Nearly all compact cameras have very small sensors which have mediocre performance. If two sensors are the same size (which they are today in most compact cameras), and both have an adequate number of MP, the camera with the small number of MP will likely capture better quality imagines because it will be less susceptible to noise and likely be more sensitive to light.
Low Cost: There are lots of decent choices. I tend to like the low end of Canon's PowerShot line such as the A570. They tend to be pretty decent cameras, do color accurately, and can use replacement AA batteries which is useful when you can't use a charger. It's worth noting that most manufacturers "budget" cameras use exactly the same sensors as the "prosumer" cameras. The main difference are bells and whistles than most people don't use.
Rugged Environment: Pentex Optio W line such as the W60 or Olympus WS line such as 1050WS which are splash proof and more shock resistant than many other compact cameras. I generally prefer Pentex. I know people who have had leaking problems with some of the earlier Olympus cameras though I have heard they have addressed these problems. Many manufacturers also make fully waterproof cases for some of their cameras... though the cases are often almost as expensive as the cameras are. Canon PowerShot D10 is a purpose driven camera designed for use in the water which has gotten some good reviews. If I wanted a camera primarily for around water use, I would go with the Canon. The Panasonic Lumix TS1 is a small and handy camera which isn't too bad. None of these cameras compare well in terms of image quality with the compact "serious photographers" cameras below.
"Serious" Photographers: The camera manufacturers pitch "prosumer" cameras. There image quality is typically not as good as a DSLR, the controls controls are typically more difficult to use so it's too tempting to leave the camera in one of the "creative" models. What would I recommend for serious photographers? If you don't have a DSLR, get one, carry and use it. The cheaper DSLR are cost competitive with many of the prosumer cameras and will get much higher quality images. Consider one of the "serious compact cameras" if you already have a DSLR or rangefinder and want a small, carry anywhere camera as a supplement.
For me a perfect camera would do the following. No camera does all these things right yet:
Panasonic LX3 has the widest angle lens (24-60) which has a maximum aperture which ranges between 2-2.8 and the sharpest lens of the compacts with a zoom lens. I found image quality good to ISO 200, decent to ISO 400 with some processing, and usable with post processing to ISO 800. The "lock" button can control focus, exposure, or both; one time or sticky. The LX3 is one of the more photographer friendly camera when it comes to the menu system and settings. The combination of the quick menu joystick and dedicated buttons makes adjusting most settings quick and easy. I just wish they had two dials rather than using the joystick to adjust exposure: up/down changes values, side to side switched between aperture/speed and EV comp. I also wish the "Play" was a soft button rather than a switch. I have periodically pulled out the LX3 to take a picture and accidently put it into play model. By the time I realized what I did I lost the picture. I like the ability to set a maximum value used by auto-ISO. The screen on the LX3 can be unusable in bright sunlight level you to shoot blind.
Canon S90 is the smallest option and seems to have a very fast start-up. This is my favorite every moment carry camera because it actually fits into my pants pocket. A downside of the size is that the S90 feels a bit awkward in my hand... the shutter release doesn't feel quite right and I would prefer the thumb wheel to be higher and it's easy to bump when using the buttons. Several times I have accidently changed a setting. I don't like the menu system for the S90 as much as I like the LX3. One advantage over the LX3 is that the custom setting and manual are completely independent of the P/T/A. With the LX3 there are some values which are global across all of these settings. I found that the S90 controls noise better than the LX3. Good to ISO 400, decent to ISO 800 with processing, manageable at 1600 with post processing on the raw images. At the short end of the lens this camera has the same minimum aperture as the LX3 giving the S90 a 1-2 stop advantage in low light, but it loses that advantage at maximum zoom. I found the lens/sensor doesn't seem to have the same resolution as the LX3. The screen on the S90 is pretty amazing. If you turn up the brightness it is usable in the worse lighting situations.
Canon G11 which I have little experience with (played with a friends for an hour or so). It seems to be slightly more versatile than the LX3 and S90 and feels better in my hand, but it is also larger and heavier. It's no going into any clothing pockets. Some people might consider the new interchangable lens Panasonic GF1 in this category, but I think it's a bit too large to be consider "compact".
Ricoh GXR takens a different approach to interchangeable lens but putting the lens and sensor in in a sealed unit. Looks quite interesting.
Panasonic GF1 is considered by some people to be in this category. While I like the GF1, I think it's too big to be considered a truly compact camera. The GF1 is more the size of a compact rangefinder. In fact, from a size and density perspective, it reminds me of my old Leica CL The GF1 have a 1-2 stop advantage over all the zoom compact cameras on the market and significantly better resolution provide you are using a decent lens like the 20/1.7. I will write more about the u4/3 line of camera below.
Fixed Lens
Some people can't imagine restricting themselves to a single framing. There are many situations where I found the view from a fixed lens between 28-50mm lens (35mm framing) worked well. Generally 35-40mm was the best length for me.
Ricoh GR Digital III has nice ergonomics and the sensor is finally in the league of other small sensor compact cameras (LX3 and G11). A decent sensor is combined with an excellent lens. Auto focus is very quick and the camera is pocketable. If you are looking for a smaller shooter at a wide angle, this is likely the camera for you.
Leica X1, It's great that a pocket camera would have a good lens being mated to a APC size sensor... but $2k price tag?! I doubt I will ever convince myself to spend so much money. I have no personal experience with the X1. The review suggest that while there are a lot of nice aspects to this camera, that it's far from perfect. The biggest downside to me seems to be that the X1doesn't focus as quickly as the Ricoh GRD3 or the Panasonic GF1 and the manual focus isn't the best.
Sigma DP1 & DP2 has a good quality sensor and a sharp lens, but is SLOW and a surprisingly so/so high ISO performance given it's larger sensor. This camera has less mega-pixels than several of the other cameras in this category. It has enough pixels that it will work well until doing larger prints.
For other ideas you might look at Mike Johnston's "recommended" point and shoots and his decisive moment digital camera. Mike decided that the Pansonic GF1 is his decisive moment digital camera. The blog serious compacts does a good job tracking this space.
Compact Super Zooms, sometimes call all-in-ones, sometimes called SLR-like, are a popular style of camera. They typically have an electronic viewfinder with a huge zoom range with the lens. These cameras typically cost less than a DSLR kit, weight around 1lb and are approx 2/3 the size and weight of a compact DSLR that has a small lens, and significantly smaller and lighter than a DSLR with lens which covers a similar range. I think the the Canon 10SX IS (versatile, great movie mode), Panasonic FZ28 (reasonable fast auto focus in shorter lengths and good color control) are the two nicest cameras in this category.
I don't like compact super zooms. Why? First, they all have small sensors which means that you can't shoot them at anything faster than ASA 100 without a lot of noise. If you use them zoomed out, you really need to be in bright light or you will see suffer from camera shake. Even at ASA 100 I have found the image quality to not match any decent DSLR. While they are lighter and more compact than a DSLR, they are big enough that you have to consciously think about taking one with you, and you need to hang it around your neck or put it in a good size bag. In other words, it's not much less hassle than a DSLR.
If you are carrying a rangefinder or a SLR, you made a conscious decision that you want to take pictures. The "small" camera bag typically weight at least 2lbs and has at least camera body and two lens. Serious outing could easily be 20lbs of gear in a large backpack. Most people don't have this devotion. Some people are willing to bring to carry a few pounds of camera gear whenever they are focused on capturing images such as when they go on a trip or to some special event. Why? Because this class of camera captures much high quality images, and greatly increases the odds that you will capture image you hope to get. Why?
Sensor Quality: The sensor in digital SLRs and rangefinders are typically has more than four times the area of the smaller cameras. This means that they can operate in significantly less light. They also are less prone to noise so night time images work much better.
Fast Action: All of the consumer grade digital cameras have what is often described as long shutter lag times (which is really auto-focus, exposure setting lag). With some of the digital point & shoot cameras, from the time you press the button, to the time the camera records the image is more than one second. When taking action shots, this is an eternity. I have lost many images with a camera that has a mere .5 sec shutter lap. The higher quality consumer grade cameras do permit you to set focus and exposure manually. Once these are set, shutter lag can be acceptable, but you have lost the P&S ease of use. Using any of the current consumer grade digital cameras in manual mode is significantly more difficult than using a fully manual Leica. See a nice table listing many digital P&S shutter lag times. I don't know if these number of fully accurate, but they are a useful general guidelines. For some content, shutter lag times of the Canon XTi DSLR are .105 sec, classic film SLR is about .06 sec, and a Leica M rangefinder with a mechanical shutter is .018 sec.
Narrow Depth of Field: If you regularly rely on a narrow depth of field to through the background out of focus, you will have trouble with any of the consumer P&S since they have small sensors (e.g. given the same field of view and aperture setting, the depth of field will be significantly greater than 35mm).
DSLR? Any of the DSLRs from major manufacturers are decent. If you already has lens in some system, select a DSLR which can use those lens. If you don't have lens, or your lens can be used by any of the digital bodies, then I typically recommend Canon or Nikon Digital SLRs. I really like the compact bodies made by Olympus, but the lens selection is still pretty limited.
Rangefinder? Not as versatile as a DSLR, but some people really like using them. They are particularly well suited to candid portraits, street photography when you preset focus, travel, and available light photography. A rangefinder system will typically be smaller and lighter than an equivalent DSLR system. Unfortunately, rangefinders tend to be significantly more expensive than equivalent DSLR.
Red One is am amazing, reconfiguration camera system appropriate for high quality video or stills.
absolute image quality is king. If a fork-lift is required, so be it. Typically the camera is one of the smaller /lighter tems. Tripods, lighting, etc are often involved. View cameras, medium format, etc.
Realize there are a number of factors which need to be traded off against each other. The camera which is right for one of these reviewer might be different than what is right for you. I will not that some people I think there are five major factors which will dictate what camera you should buy.